Fender evolution: SKS Speedrocker review

If you’ve followed my ramblings for any significant length of time, you know that I’m a big advocate for fenders (mudguards) on bicycles – especially the full-coverage kind that mount to your bike via metal stays and bolts – as they are the single biggest improvement you can make to a bicycle to make it an all-weather vehicle. I actively sought out fender mounts while shopping for my bike Hyro almost ten years ago, and way before they were embraced by the local hipster cycling crowd, I was privately importing the things from overseas because there was a rat’s chance in hell of buying them locally in 2014.

That said, the landscape has changed, and nowadays there are fender sets that cater towards bikes that have a distinct lack of threaded holes for bolting stuff to (which is a trend I dislike, but I digress). Having run my 53 mm SKS Bluemels for a good long while, I decided to shake things up in a couple of ways – firstly, by mounting Panaracer’s 38 mm Gravel King SKs, and secondly, by pairing them with SKS’ Speedrocker fender set.

FEATURES

• Meant for disc-brake road, cyclocross, and gravel bikes with 700C wheels and tires
• Quick to install and remove via straps
• Maximum tire width supported: 700C x 42 mm
• Front fender length: 500 + 210 mm
• Rear fender length: 950 mm
• Compatible with the Speedrocker Extension add-on
• Weight: 408 g (claimed)
• Price: PhP3,300 from Bikeary Bicycle Lifestyle

IMPRESSIONS

Scissors not included.

Before we begin, I think SKS has done a bang-up job with the packaging of the Speedrockers. It’s just two big pieces of cardboard, creatively cut and folded up, with a single plastic bag for the fixing hardware, some office-grade staples, and two large zip ties to secure the actual fenders themselves. That’s it.

The Speedrockers pride themselves as a fender set you can simply strap onto your bike, without having to mess around with cutting metal stays or needing threaded bosses on your frame and fork to mount them with. SKS has had similar “quick-release” fender sets in the past, but these have been tweaked into their ultimate iteration on the concept, and I find it fascinating how they arrived at this design while benchmarking their traditional full-coverage fender models for performance.

Looking at the rear of the packaging gives a few hints. The Speedrocker fenders have their own stays built in. One set is integrated into the same impact-resistant plastic of the fenders. The other set are one-piece U-shaped aluminum stays that run through the fenders themselves. Both sets terminate into angle-adjustable plastic fittings with angled nail-like nubs, which you work the supplied rubber grommets over. These are what contact the frame and fork, held by two types of straps.

These plastic fittings are ingeniously designed. Not only do they mount the rubber grommets that contact frame and fork, they also route the straps.

Improving on their previous Raceblade clip-on fender design for road bikes, the Speedrocker front fender comes in two parts, one for both sides of the fork crown. With the front piece, they’ve accounted for the road muck that a cyclist’s face can pick up once riding past 20 km/h on a wet road. These two “halves” of the front fender are then lashed to the fork legs via a single common Velcro strap, which is plenty long and has a rubberized backing on one side to protect from scratches. SKS even throws in some clear frame protection stickers, should you wish even more scratch protection.

The Velcro straps are pretty long; I folded them over to manage the extra length without having to cut them.

The aluminum rear stay is then free to rotate within the fender, accommodating any mounting angle the rubber grommets will make with the lower fork leg, as they are strapped down with another pair of rubber-backed Velcro straps. A closer look at these stays reveals that they use a similar mechanism to those of SKS’ full-length fender sets, which should enable automatic release if a sufficiently large object gets wedged between fender and tire. Lastly, the stays can move in and out a certain amount by loosening a 2.5 mm hex bolt. SKS recommends snipping these if you’re running them on a bike with narrower tires.

Mounting the fenders with this embossed “TOP” label facing down will disable the automatic safety release.

The rear fender mounts up to the frame in a similar way, with four rubber grommets contacting the seat stays. One difference is that the straps back here no longer use Velcro. Instead, they’re made of a stretchy rubbery plastic with two rows of holes, slotting into tongues in the plastic fittings like how a belt buckle works.

Securing the rear fender to the seat tube is quite clever. There is a sliding projection which you can extend from the rear fender until it makes contact with the frame’s seat tube – it’s even scalloped for a better fit. You then thread the remaining rubber-backed Velcro strap through its two holes and strap it down against the seat tube. This is an elegant solution to a perennial problem I’ve had with Hyro’s full-length fender sets, as the TCX frame doesn’t have a chainstay bridge or some other way of bolting down the forward edge of the rear fender. In practice, my solution was to simply never remove the rear fender; by contrast, this arrangement makes rear fender removal dead easy.

All of Hyro’s full-coverage fenders have had to use this arrangement of zip ties to secure the front edge of the rear fender. It works, but is basically a permanent fixture, and the zip ties eat through unprotected paint after a while.

The Speedrocker rear fender simplifies securing of its forward edge massively.

SKS recommends a 15 mm gap between fender and tire tread for best results, and they “enforce” this by having a flat square area on the inside of the fender to serve as a crude go/no-go feeler gauge. I’ve gotten the Speedrockers to fit about as close to the tire tread as my old sets of Longboards and Bluemels, which should avoid them acting like air brakes or drag parachutes while riding at high speed.

While the 950 mm Speedrocker rear fender isn’t quite as long as my Bluemels’ 1285, the Speedrocker Extension exists for folks who want better, more paceline-friendly coverage out back. This add-on hooks into the rear fender’s aluminum stay, bringing 170 mm of length for a not-too-shabby 36 g weight penalty.

The result is a pair of quick-release fenders that look pretty good and promise most of the coverage of a full-length set. Measuring 46 mm wide on my vernier calipers, they certainly seem to fit pretty well over the 38 mm Gravel King SKs, with little extraneous material. What’s even more impressive is how easily and quickly I got these to fit on Hyro’s frame. With the cutting of fender stays and threading of eye bolts eliminated, installing the Speedrockers is vastly simplified, taking me only 75 minutes and a single 2.5 mm hex key to complete. Subsequent dismounting and remounting will be even faster and tool-free.

IN USE

As far as fenders went, I already had a perfectly good set of SKS Bluemels. So why did I get the Speedrockers?

Hyro’s Bluemels front fender is shown here dismounted and lying on its side on the lower left.

Loading bikes into my cars using the Minoura Vergo-TF2 rack, I had to remove any front fenders to avoid them fouling and crumpling on the load floor. This meant having to bring a 4 mm hex key, or a cordless drill with 4 mm hex bit, to remove the bolts holding it fast to the fork, plus spacers to clear the disc brake caliper and rubber washers to dampen fender-cracking vibration. This got old pretty quickly. The Speedrockers make this process tool-free, while having a smaller footprint in the process, as there are no conventional metal fender stays to contend with. This all contributes to at least a 230 g weight saving over the 53 mm Bluemels set.

Second, they are much easier to fit onto multiple similar bikes without modification, especially if you don’t cut any of the straps or stays. Installing a full-length fender set to a bike usually means that that set is made to fit that one particular bike, unless you buy yourself another set of fender stays and repeat the measuring and cutting process. In a sense, the Speedrocker set is quite a bit more future-proof.

Lastly, as much as I loved my full-length fender sets, I think I pigeonholed Hyro and myself into pure road cyclist mode by running them. Since the TCX frame lacked a chainstay bridge, or any provision around the seat tube for easy mounting and dismounting of a full-length rear fender, I ended up running full-length fenders permanently because I practically had to. On a bike whose primary virtue was versatility, this was a glaring weakness.

The SKS Speedrocker fender set solves all of these aforementioned problems – quite well, I might add. Riding around with them mounted, they are surprisingly solid and rattle-free, which is no small feat for what would have been mocked as merely a “temporary” fender set in years past. There isn’t even any tire rub to report, save for tight steering situations at very low speeds, where toe overlap sees one of your shoes catch on the back edge of the front fender…which will then induce rub on the front tire tread. That will happen on even the Bluemels fenders too, though, so it’s a total non-issue.

VERDICT

Given the unexpectedly bold branding, SKS are obviously quite proud of this set.

I was expecting the Speedrockers to be a disappointing, heavily compromised step backward from the Bluemels. That simply isn’t the case. Sure, the set gives up some ultimate protection against road muck, especially in terms of length and lower headset bearing coverage, but it’s still miles better than an Ass Saver while being about as easy to mount and dismount.

The Speedrockers also free you from requiring fender bosses on your frame, while delivering practically all the benefit of a full-length fender set. With more and more bike makers stubbornly refusing to make a few threaded holes on their frames for whatever ridiculous reason is in vogue at the moment, these are one of the much better options to add all-weather capability to your ride. Those of us who desire more coverage up front can modify them to fit a mudflap, while friends of the paceline can avail of the Speedrocker Extension for added length at the rear.

The best thing I can say is the Speedrocker set brings back the versatile character of the TCX chassis that I championed to begin with, and frees it up for more adventurous off-pavement riding scenarios such as gravel and dirt routes. Recommended.

Review: Van Rysel RoadR 920 photochromic sunglasses

For all my preparation for the 2022 Subic-Masinloc-Subic audax, there was one particularly bad equipment failure I didn’t properly account for: my protective eyewear.

The nose bridge piece on my Lazer SS1s fell off into parts unknown as I was pulling them out of their carrying pouch while riding. I could still wear them if forced, but the fit was now nowhere near as good…and that pretty much ruled them out as usable. The timing of this failure was spot-on, as around the time it happened was the beginning of the sun making itself known, and the winds of Zambales picking up steam.

It stood to reason, then, that wearing the sunglasses from the very start would be the way to go minimize this risk. For that, a cyclist would need a pair with photochromic lenses, which would dynamically reduce their visible light transmission when more ultraviolet (UV) light is out, while being more transparent during darker or more overcast scenarios.

All great, except for one problem: photochromic technology is expensive. The most affordable pairs I came across were a discounted Oakley Radar for just under PhP10,000, and a Rudy Project model on sale for PhP13,000. This is particularly bad news if, like me, you have a track record of getting your sunglasses lost.

Fortunately, French warehouse retailer Decathlon is out to prove that photochromic lens technology can be for the masses. Let’s see how they intend to do so.

FEATURES

• Photochromic lenses rated to darken in 30 seconds, and lighten in 45
• Permanent anti-fog coating
• Visible light transmission: 15% to 55% (Category 1 to Category 3)
• Construction
  • Lenses: Polycarbonate
  • Frame: 80% polyamide, 20% ethylene butadiene styrene
• Suggested retail price: PhP4,600

IMPRESSIONS

When I ordered these from Decathlon Philippines, they were selling for 40% off, which translated to PhP2,740 a pair. That meant I could buy two of these for just slightly more than the regular retail price, and what I ended up doing. Wouldn’t hurt to have a spare pair in case my clumsiness gets the better of me yet again, I reckon.

Out of their case, the Van Rysel RoadR 920 shades come in a pleasing shade of translucent violet, comprising the main color of the wrap-around lens. In this sense, they’re not quite up to the full transparency of the Oakley or Rudy Project options when they’re not subjected to UV light. The 55% maximum visible light transmission rating does mean they still remain useful in overcast environs, though. For reference, “transparent” tint films for cars are usually rated at 70% visible light transmission.

Because the Van Rysel shades don’t have to account for lens-swapping like the Lazer SS1s do, owing to the photochromic tint, they’re a little more solidly constructed. The nose bridge piece doesn’t come off, and the frameless construction overall feels quite sturdy and tolerant of some abuse. Borrowing a trick from other athletic eyewear manufacturers, the center region of the lens is a little taller than the rest, which is a good way of ensuring coverage and visibility while riding in the drops or in an otherwise low, aerodynamic position.

6:49 am.

So, for the party trick: how does that lens fare? Over a Sunday morning ride from 6 am to 10 am, the transition from light to dark tint is quite neat, bordering on unnoticeable while you’re riding. Without having an outside observer, or before-and-after comparison self-portraits, I would not be able to tell that the tint had indeed gotten darker. It just does its thing in the background, letting you continue your ride as it compensates for more sunlight. The range between maximum and minimum visible light transmission is more constrained compared to other photochromic cycling optics, and the purple tint is never completely going to go away…but it does work.

9:38 am.

The photochromic purple tint may be the headline feature, but the RoadR 920s are also notable for their resistance against fogging. This is even considering that their design isn’t exactly the best ventilated. Many cycling sunglasses have cutouts meant for wind to come in and mitigate fog formation; these have no such concession. Decathlon/Van Rysel does state that this permanent anti-fog coating requires that you avoid wiping them clean when dry – they need some soapy water and a wipe from their own microfiber cloth pouch, lest they succumb to scratching.

If there is a weakness to these shades, it may lie in their fit. Buying them online meant I had no opportunity to test how well they got on with my face, but on balance they worked well enough. That said, as prone as it is to falling off and getting lost, the nose bridge piece on the Lazer SS1 shades seems to follow the contours of my nose better, with more of an organic curve to its shape, allowing the nose gripper pads to work better. The RoadR 920s do an okay job staying perched on my honker, but I definitely felt that they were a little more square-edged and could improve in this regard.

VERDICT

The restricted range of visible light transmission on the RoadR 920 sunglasses may be a bit of a letdown for those expecting a fully transparent view in the dark, and a huge reduction in light transmission when the sun is out. Then again, this is a case of getting what one pays for, and for what it is, it does do what it says on the tin.

That said, taken as just a normal pair of cycling sunglasses, they’re not bad. The lens shaping is thoughtfully done for those of us who ride in the drops, and while the nose bridge piece isn’t the last word in fit and security, the frameless design is well put together. The photochromic capability is a useful way of extending the time these spend on your nose protecting your eyes, and the translucent purple filtering is a useful compromise between protection and picking out detail.

If you don’t care for the variable light filtering and are stuck to a tight budget, these might not be up your alley. However, if these fit you well, and you want a road cycling specific pair of sunglasses that can help you keep on riding with less faff than usual, these are worthy of consideration. And of course, when they go on sale, they’re an even better deal.

First impressions: Panaracer Gravel King SK tires, 700C x 38 mm

After having ridden at my familiar southern stomping grounds for years, it’s funny that I had never properly discovered the hidden trail network that ran through it and clandestinely intersected the roads I’d spent so much time on. An opportunity to ride with folks who knew about these ribbons of singletrack finally popped up, and so I felt I needed to prepare for it.

That preparation means more suitable rubber. As good as my American Classic Timekeepers are, they simply aren’t cut out for taking on trails. With my last set of knobby tires long since disintegrated, and with so many more options available in light of the gravel cycling boom, I thought I should sample one of them to get my trail-riding feet wet again.

With my budget a little tight and me unwilling to spend obscene amounts on tires I might not end up using frequently, I went with Panaracer’s long-running Gravel King SKs. I got my pair from online seller/importer Cycle Meeting for PhP3,800, or about PhP1,900 (~US$35) apiece, which is not too shabby considering many other gravel tire options go for PhP4,000 on their own. The 700C x 38 mm advertised size (which, strangely, differs from the ISO/ETRTO listed size of “40-622”) should fit into Hyro’s frame and fork. These newer gravel tires seem to have better reconciled the differing demands of riding on the road and grip on the rough stuff, although due to the word “gravel” really meaning different surfaces to different people and locations, no single tire will work for everyone’s riding as it’s all points on a fairly wide spectrum.

This is not my first dance with Panaracer rubber. Previously I had a pair of Fairweather For Traveller tires, which they produced in collaboration with Tokyo bike shop Blue Lug, and are basically the herringbone-tread Gravel King slick tires in disguise. These, however, are tubeless compatible, and have a tread pattern made up of square knobs and ridges – hence the “SK” designation, to differentiate them from the four other tread patterns in the Gravel King lineup.

True to Panaracer’s reputation and my previous experience, these tires were a pain to mount to my wheels and set up tubeless. Like the Fairweather tires before them, the SKs had tough, stubborn beads that made hoiking them over my rims a chore – slightly less so than the Fairweathers, but nowhere near as easy as with the Timekeepers. Worse, when they were finally inside the rim bed, they were a baggy fit, which undermined their tubeless set-up capability. I charged up my Bontrager Flash Charger pump to 160 psi about four or five times to seat them, only to be greeted with just a hiss of leaking air. When the sweet pops of success came, it was only after I had laid down five or six layers of tubeless rim tape, as opposed to the two or three the Timekeepers needed. As this is only my second rodeo with tubeless bike tires, this added setup length may have been due to the much larger volume on these 38 mm rubbers.

Fresh Orange Seal Endurance sealant injected and 42 psi of air pumped in, I rode them around the village for two laps to saturate the SKs’ tire carcasses with sealant, and to get a few ride impressions on pavement.

Hyro’s original footwear: Schwalbe Super Swan 700C x 35 mm mud knobbies. Photo circa 2016

For my ride impressions to have sufficient context, I feel like I have to make comparisons with Hyro’s original tires. They were Schwalbe Super Swan 700C x 35 mm knobbies meant for use in the mud – and they themselves are simply a narrow-carcass variant of the Rocket Ron mountain bike tire. Hyro is a cyclocross bike, after all – essentially the prototypical gravel bike when the gravel bike category was just a pipe dream.

In the few times I rode them on pavement and asphalt, they were not my favorite. The steam-roller effect of the larger tire size was an interesting novelty compared to the 28 mm slicks I usually ride, simply rolling over ruts and road acne, but everything else about the Super Swans was terrible away from the trails. Steering response felt sluggish and ponderous, and the wide voids in between tread blocks meant I couldn’t really lean into turns and shift my weight very well. Inertia from a standing start was rather bad, too. Away from the mud, the Super Swans gave Hyro a distinctly “straight and upright is best” riding style that felt very alien to me and my roadie predilections.

By comparison, the SKs benefit from almost ten years of gravel tire refinement over the Super Swans, and they feel like a much better dual-purpose tire. The design trend towards a dense center tread, combined with more aggressive lugs toward the tread shoulders, makes for much better steering response on the street. Tubeless tire technology finally delivers on the promises the Super Swan’s 35 mm width simply hinted at; where those tires couldn’t be run below 60 psi, at 42 psi the SKs deliver a distinctly more balloon-like cushiony ride quality.

The jury’s out on how much heavier these will be to spin up, as the SK’s much larger carcass compared to a 28 mm slick also means the whole bike has larger tire circumference and is effectively geared harder like-for-like. It also remains to be seen how well these tires will behave on that long-hidden singletrack. I’ll have two upcoming rides to see for myself. In the meantime, I am mildly impressed so far.